The gang over at Alpine Ascents International have set out on a truly epic mission. If I told you that I was plannining on climbing to the summit of the tallest mountain in the world, heading back to camp 4 resting for a bit, and then continuing on to the summit of the 4th highest peak, you would say I was crazy.
And you would be right.
But when a well rounded and fully pollished mountain guide like Garrett Madison takes on such a challenge, people sit up and take notice and a very select few raise their hands and get in line.
This is a quote from Garrett’s totally awesome blog:
We will begin our trek up the Khumbu Valley at the end of March, and reach Everest Base Camp around mid April. We will train at base camp reviewing our technical climbing skills for about a week, then make our first trip up the mountain. Our first “rotation” will include climbing through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp 1 where we will spend a few nights, then on to Camp 2 for a few nights, then back to Base Camp where we will rest & recover. We will then head up for our second “rotation” where we plan to climb to camps 1, 2, then 3 and spend a night at 3, then back to Base Camp. Usually at this time we drop down valley a few nights to rest and recover where the air is thicker. After a few days rest we head back up to Everest Base Camp. Our third “rotation” will include an attempt at the summit of Everest, and for some of our climbers, an attempt at Lhotse (4th highest mountain) as well.
The plan for our “third” rotation is to climb to Camps 1,2,3, then 4. After reaching the South Col high camp (Camp 4), we will rest 24 hours then depart in the evening with the expectation of reaching Everest’s summit the next morning. We then plan to return to our high camp around noon that day. The climbers who are planning to attempt Lhotse will rest that afternoon & evening, then depart late that night and descend from the South Col to Lhotse high camp, where they will hopefully ascend the prominent couloir to the summit of Lhotse sometime that morning, then descend down to Camp 2. The other climbers who have climbed Everest but who are not attempting Lhotse will descend that day to Camp 2 as well (after sleeping that night at the South Col high camp).
Recap: We hope to safely climb to the summit of Mt. Everest, and then a few of our climbers will try to reach the summit of Lhotse (4th highest mountain) about 24 hours later. We have made preparations & will continue to stay focused to maximize our chances of success for this “Peak to Peak” adventure. As always, safety is our number 1 priority! “.
-Garrett Madison Expedition Leader.
I have to admit that I’m alittle addicited to garretts blog. It’s great!
He has a google earth plugin with the whole route mapped, altitude tracker and good photography.
We have a tremendous amount of faith in the ability of this team to carry out this mission in a safe and efficient manner. We wish them the best!